Lee Tulloch, 8 January 2016 in http://www.traveller.com.au/sri-lanka-island-paradise-reborn-glx7uf
It may not be a case of ‘bye bye backpacker’ – they will still come for the beaches and inexpensive lifestyle – but this island nation now offers some of the finest small hotels and resorts in the world. The first time I visited Sri Lanka, four years ago, I was smitten by the sensuality of this tear-shaped island of terraced tea plantations, dense jungles, empty beaches, vine-covered ancient ruins, king coconut groves, cinnamon forests, and the fragile beauty of its dilapidated colonial-era architecture. I was not so smitten by the roads. Those days (and these) it could still take several hours to travel from Colombo to the highland tea plantations, a relatively short distance by Australian standards, on terrible thoroughfares, clogged with tuk-tuks, known as “three-wheelers” here, local buses blaring jangly music and trucks conveying elephants to new owners. There are new highways, built by Chinese chain gangs, but the hilly terrain still makes single-lane roads the norm. Continue reading








